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The Grape Glossary: A guide to hip varietals

Baga is Portugal's tough-love grape, a frequent problem child that needs stern discipline before it can shine. Difficult to grow, the red variety can be thin and sharp or dryly astringent (or all of the above) when planted on inhospitable soils and not left patiently to ripen fully into late autumn. When it's good, though, it can dazzle. Think of French pinot noir crossed with Italy's nebbiolo in a Cristiano Ronaldo jersey.

But it's far less famous than any of those three, of course. Who but the die-hard Portuguese-wine aficionado has heard of baga? Blame the oversight, in part at least, on autocratic Portuguese rule and political isolation for much of the 20th century, which stifled trade and rendered the country's more than 200 indigenous grape varieties relatively obscure to the world outside. Fortunately, Portugal has been making up for lost time. And baga, though hardly a household name, is emerging as one of the country's grapes to watch, coasting on the growing popularity of such higher-profile varieties as touriga nacional and touriga franca.

The best baga-based wines, often but not always blended with other varieties, are redolent of berries and plums, with overtones of tobacco, herbs and dark-roast coffee (particularly when matured for long periods in toasty oak). They are splendid with grilled, fatty meats and roast pork, among other things. And baga can turn out commendable rosés and sparkling wines, too.

Though grown in many parts of the country, baga is most closely associated with Bairrada, a northern region exposed to the moist influence of the Atlantic. Thin-skinned and late in ripening, the grape is highly susceptible to rot, particularly when the frequent September rains descend on vineyards. Growers are forced to walk a tightrope, either betting on dry weather in the hopes of coaxing out sunny sweetness in the berries or choosing to bring their crop in early and face the potential of high acidity and harsh, "green" tannins that can leave unsuspecting consumers with a sour, parched taste in their mouths.

Keen attention in the vineyards can help, particularly when growers prune baga's vigorous, leafy growth to discipline the vines and help accelerate berry ripeness. To that end, quality-minded vintners in Bairrada banded together a few years ago in an alliance called Baga Friends, dedicated to elevating the profile of their treasured local variety. One of its co-founders is the talented Filipa Pato, daughter of Bairrada's famed Luis Pato and a distinguished producer in her own right. Call her a leading light of Portugal's modern winemaking scene. Just don't call her Lady Baga; she'd probably blush.

Besides Filipa Pato, top producers include Quinta do Ribeirinho Pe Franco (Luis Pato), Campolargo, Dulcinea dos Santos Ferreira and Casa de Saima. Marques de Marialva, a large co-operative, makes a more widely distributed baga reserva that sells for about $16 to $18 in Canada when available.

Keep the variety in mind next time you scan the Portuguese aisle for an intriguing, gutsy red. Baga could use more friends.

The Flavour Principle by Lucy Waverman and Beppi Crosariol (HarperCollins) won top prize for best general English cookbook at the 2014 Taste Canada Food Writing Awards.

E-mail your wine and spirits questions to Beppi Crosariol. Look for answers to select questions to appear in the Wine & Spirits newsletter and on The Globe and Mail website.

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