THE QUESTION: Since optimum temperatures vary according to the type of wine, how do temperature-controlled wine cabinets work? Does one need to have several wine storers? (I can't think of what they are called.)
THE ANSWER: Though they may resemble refrigerators, most wine cabinets are designed to replicate cellar conditions rather than to chill wines to optimal serving temperature.
It's a good question, because many units are now designed as under-counter display cases for kitchens, perhaps leading some people to assume they function to provide easy access to the perfectly chilled bottle. Generally, that's not what you're paying for when you pony up anywhere from $800 to $5,000 for models with a capacity of 40 to 160 bottles, respectively. Good cabinets, from such producers as EuroCave, Liebherr and Sub-Zero, tend to operate within a range of 4 C to 18 C in temperature and also maintain correct humidity to ensure that corks don't dry out and lose their seal over time. Four degrees is typical fridge temperature, but generally you'd want to set a wine-storage cabinet slightly warmer than that - roughly 10 C to 15 C. For extremely modest "collectors," there are cute little countertop units costing less than $200 with a capacity of six to 12 bottles. Some high-end refrigeration brands, notably Sub-Zero, make models designed with multiple temperature compartments, a cool section for long-term cellaring and a colder section that acts as a fridge, the latter for storing white wines (or, yes, beer!) destined for enjoying over the next few weeks or, at most, months. For longer-term cellaring, the regular compartment, or a cool and humid (between 60 and 80 per cent relative humidity) basement is critical.
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