Getty Images/iStockphoto
When it comes to mapping terroir these days, no area is too small. We're moving beyond sub-appellations and micro-climates into the new frontier of "parcel" or "block" wines, which narrow the source of the liquid down to a single, small patch within a vineyard.
Some of what's driving this tiny vine trend is the firm belief that specific soil profiles lead to significantly different flavour profiles, although this is controversial since some wine experts point to genetic mutations and/or sun exposure as more likely causes for any discernible variations in taste.
In Argentina, Dr. Laura Catena, a physician and fourth-generation winemaker at Bodega Catena Zapata, has taken the thesis to the next-level by thoroughly excavating nearly every inch of her Adrianna vineyard, a small, high-altitude area with markedly different soil composition from one parcel to the next, the result of geological changes millions of years ago.
Wine lovers will recognize the fruits of Catena's efforts as the White Stones and White Bones chardonnay bottlings from its Vino de Parcela line. Both are highly acclaimed – one vintage even boasting a 99-point score from critic James Suckling. Same grape, same altitude, but different dirt thanks to the fact that a river ran through the Bones area, which they know from the discovery of marine fossils. The result is two distinct wines: The White Stones, produced from 27 rows of vines in one single parcel, is more floral and aromatic. Other factors could be at play, of course, and in the name of thoroughness, Catena continues to apply the scientific method to explore bacteria and genetic mutations as well as the role of mineral deposits.
Regardless of the final verdict, expect to see more intensive mapping projects and parcel releases, many of which are already on shelves from wineries like Kelowna's Cedar Creek and Niagara's Tawse winery – the latter an early adopter of the philosophy with its block wine bottlings. Tawse was motivated by a desire to express the terroir as honestly as possible, as well as give due to a region it has long considered a great model.
"Our original inspiration came from the great wines of Burgundy where they've been separating the vineyards by name for up to a thousand years," says Paul Pender, Tawse's head winemaker. "And, through time, the winemakers there realized that there were distinct differences in the wine made from the same grapes, parcel to parcel."
It may be old hat in Burgundy, but the reason it's spreading to the New World now has a lot to do with current tastes, especially the general consumer trend away from consistency and towards variety. "When you have a large plot of chardonnay that's all blended together, it becomes a little bit homogenous, which means you're going to have a reliable product that's similar to other chardonnays from other large plots," says Chris Lafleur, a sommelier at Toronto's Eleven. "I think we're going to see more of it, because wine geeks love to say, 'Oh, this is from the smallest plot of land,' or 'It's the most concentrated flavour from this terroir.'"
With somms and oenophiles embracing it, you can bet we'll see smaller and smaller blocks and parcels in the future. The wine world is a small one, after all.
Christine Sismondo travelled to Argentina as a guest of Bodega Catena Zapata and Noble Estates. The companies did not review or approve this article prior to publication.
Visit tgam.ca/newsletters to sign up for the Globe Style e-newsletter, your weekly digital guide to the players and trends influencing fashion, design and entertaining, plus shopping tips and inspiration for living well. And follow Globe Style on Instagram @globestyle.