Vancouver’s Long Table Distillery earned praise for its version of the Scandinavian spirit akvavit, often called aquavit in Canada.Ben Nelms/The Globe and Mail
Spirits fans are touting akvavit, which Canadians call aquavit, as the Next Big Scandinavian Thing to influence our palates. Freshly chilled from the freezer, it's smooth with a savoury aroma. Drinking it is like walking through a herbaceous meadow – with a stiff drink in your hand.
"In its simplest form, it's a Nordic gin, but flavoured with caraway instead of juniper," explains Alex Black, bartender at the Vancouver Club.
"Think of it like a whisky: Different countries have different styles, so dill is big in Denmark, the Swedes like it made with fennel. The unifying factor is that it's always a celebratory drink, and it's drunk with food and friends," he says.
Aquavit is a true aperitif, hard to sip without whetting the appetite a little (match it with pickled or smoked seafoods, oysters or charcuterie).
To try it in a cocktail, Black suggests switching in aquavit for any gin-based drink that's not too sweet, such as a corpse reviver or last word.
Danish brands tend to dominate in liquor stores, but Canadian distillers are getting in on the act, too, so look out for local expressions of this most Scandinavian spirit.
Start here
Vancouver's Long Table Distillery scored a silver medal at the 2015 World Spirits Competition for its version, which adds fennel, anise and Seville orange to the traditional caraway for a silky-smooth sipper. Its website has great cocktail ideas. Long Table Distillery Langbord Akvavit. Available in B.C. and Alberta. $47.
Shake it up
"I love to use aquavit in savoury drinks that pair with food," says Montreal bartender Mélanie Aumai, of the restaurant Tripe and Caviar. "To me, it's almost in between a flavoured vodka and gin."
Here's a recipe for the Scandinavian scandal, from Aumai's current menu: Shake 1 oz aquavit, 1 oz fino sherry, 1/2 oz lime juice, 1/2 oz simple syrup and a dash of celery bitters over ice. Strain and serve up in a coupette. Garnish with a small piece of dill.
Take flight
For those who want to explore different expressions of the spirit, Vancouver's Uva Wine and Cocktail bar currently has two Canadian and three Scandinavian varieties on offer.
"Aquavit is terroir study in Scandinavian culture," bar manager Lauren Mote says. "Canadians are using those same Nordic spices – caraway and dill – but using local botanicals, too. Trying it neat is the best way to taste the spirit, but it's a great base for savoury cocktails, too."