The bottle looks like a Soyuz rocket, tall, slender and easy to topple under the influence of a third martini. Don't let that happen, because this is one fine beverage. Though the good people at Stoli have been busy concocting flavours worthy of Baskin-Robbins (Chocolat Razberi, come on down), this vodka owes its allure to a more sensible gimmick, subzero filtration. After it's distilled, the spirit goes into the freezer (always a good place for vodka, in my book). The higher viscosity at -18 C makes it easier, according to the promo literature, to remove impurities. That's Russian propaganda I'm willing to buy. This ultra-premium offering is exceptionally smooth, round and silky, far superior to most luxury vodkas, with a spicy aroma that gives way on the palate to nuances of grain and vanilla. Keep it far away from saccharine mixes such as orange juice or Red Bull. And keep the bottle away from clumsy elbows.