The question: Tiny super-specialized tacos continue to dominate this summer, dispensed by food trucks and a never-ending parade of hipster taco joints peddling beef cheeks, deep-fried fish and roasted cauliflower specialties loaded with spice and cream. Can any wine stand up to the smorgasbord?
The answer: It's a tall order, and the short answer, strictly speaking, is no.
I had a marinated-octopus taco from a food truck recently and wished I could have quenched my thirst for a dry Mediterranean white or cold shot of tequila with a squirt of lime. For richer beef tacos I tend to favour fruity reds, especially red (not pink) zinfandel or shiraz in the case of particularly spicy preparations. Hearty meat and bold heat demand the cooling embrace of jammy fruit. If I had to settle on just one wine to cover the waterfront, I'd probably go with chilled gamay, the light, crisp red variety most often associated with Beaujolais. Zesty, fruity and not too pretentious or expensive, it's as cheerful as a mariachi band at an open-bar wedding. Or there's always sangria if you really must have wine instead of beer or tequila.