Cool Pacific air and fog drift up to the vineyards of Umpqua Valley, a region that lives in the shadow of Oregon's big Willamette Valley to the north, breeding the crisp spine that good pinot demands. The colour is so light it's easy to misconstrue this wine as inconsequential. But the flavour is balanced and complex. A supple texture carries delectable berry fruitiness and whiffs of underbrush, earth and smoked herbs.