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Collingwood burst on the scene a couple of years ago with a whisky in a distinctive cologne-style decanter. Made in the Canadian Mist plant in Collingwood, Ont., by the distillery's Kentucky-based owner, Brown-Forman of Jack Daniel's fame, the spirit was distinctive, too. After years mellowing in oak, the corn-heavy blend spent a brief "finishing" period in contact with toasted maple staves for a syrupy sweetness. This new, limited-release 21-year-old is, by contrast, all rye, sourced from a forgotten batch laid down in the Canadian Mist warehouse in 1991. It ranks in a different league with more stories to tell. Creamy, rich and bold, it's seductively sweet, with notes of caramel, maple, date, prune and fig and a Cognac-like vinous character. A marvellous after-dinner dram. Available early December only in Ontario.

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