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wine review

The Garnacha Centenaria is made by Bodegas Aragonesas, a large co-operative in the out-of-the-way Campo de Borja appellation of northern Spain. But the juice tastes like a craft product, owing, no doubt, to the century-old vines, which yield small, rich berries. It's dense, supple and luscious, with a creamy texture carrying flavours of cherry, cedar and spice, with tannic grip and lively acidity for structure. Amazing red for the money, and perfect for rare lamb chops.

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