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wine review

This 2009 vintage of Dom Pérignon is the first in the iconic Champagne brand's history to have been released out of chronological sequence. Which is to say, it has hit the market before the 2008 vintage. Unlike most Champagnes, which are blended from various harvests for flavour consistency year to year, Dom always comes with a vintage date to denote the growing season in which it was produced. Cellar master Richard Geoffroy deemed that the wine had reached a certain level of maturity quickly because of 2009's generally warm conditions. So here it is in all its precocious and lavish glory.

I'd say everything's where it should be. There's considerable fruit ripeness in evidence yet it comes without the crutch of sugar. Peach and pineapple mingle with toasty bread, citrus, vanilla and stony minerality. Despite the ripe richness, it's all finely chiselled, with the sort of subtle depth that has kept Dom in the upper echelons of wine, period. It should continue to improve in a good cellar for a decade. Available in Ontario at the above price, various price in Alberta, $253.50 in Quebec.

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