Chardonnay can excel in stainless steel as well as oak barrels, and this exemplary, complex effort from the northern Burgundian region of Chablis offers ample proof. It's medium-bodied and smooth, with silky texture and substantial weight in the mid-palate, a hint of buttered popcorn lifted by apple, mandarin orange, tart pineapple, nutty tang and tense minerality. Available in Ontario.