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White blends based on grapes with punchy aromas, such as gewurztraminer, muscat and viognier, have been taking the market by storm. Many are too sweet for my taste. Not this one, a compelling medley of chardonnay, gewurztraminer, viognier and – chardonnay's musky relative – chardonnay musqué. Medium-bodied, smooth and deliciously aromatic, it sings with white grape, lychee and fresh ginger. Great as an aperitif or with light curries, among other things.

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