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"Santorini" sounds like a postcard beach vacation to those of us who don't live on the famous Greek island, doesn't it? I'm vicariously on that holiday every time I taste a Santorini wine, and that almost always means white based on the great assyrtiko grape. Crisp and usually unoaked, it's a charmer, with good weight and a rounded character. This one from a big producer is moderately oily (love that), with smooth orchard fruit and a pleasant herbal-bitter edge; $19.99 in B.C., distributed by Bacchus Agents in Alberta, $18.09 in Manitoba.

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