Up around Inverness in the Scottish Highlands stands Tomatin, a low-profile single-malt whisky distillery that we're likely to hear more from in future. Until slightly more than a decade ago it was strongly geared to producing anonymous whisky destined for blending into some of Scotland's best-known big brands, including Johnnie Walker, Chivas Regal, J&B and Ballantine's. And it made a lot, claiming to be the largest malt Scotch whisky producer in the 1970s. Japanese-owned since 1986, it has been shifting toward a stronger focus on premium Tomatin-branded single malts. This 12-year-old excels for its price. Lightly sherried and round, it's richly malty and fruity with a solid note of smoky peat and nuance of nuttiness. Substantial yet smooth; $65.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $54.99 in Nova Scotia.