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Wine review: Wildass White 2009, Ontario Add to ...

  • Rating 90
  • Year 2009
  • Region Niagara
  • Varietal White blend
  • Price $19.95

The name might suggest a liquid much more trivial than this. The wine is a blend of sauvignon blanc, sémillon, gewürztraminer and riesling and is aged for about 20 months in used French oak. All of which makes it uncommon. But Stratus, the Niagara estate that produces the Wildass line, specializes in unusual and captivating elixirs. This lovely, medium-weight wine initially suggested to me slightly aged white Bordeaux (the mix of sauvignon and sémillon would account for that). Then the musky, aromatic qualities of gingery gewürztraminer and zesty riesling chimed in. It’s round and honeyed, with candied citrus and ginger notes. Lip-smacking – and a compelling lesson in how some white wines can, in fact, develop good flavour with a bit of age. Various prices in Alberta.

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