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Rating
90.00
Year
2009
Region
Niagara
Varietal
White blend
Price
$19.95

The name might suggest a liquid much more trivial than this. The wine is a blend of sauvignon blanc, sémillon, gewürztraminer and riesling and is aged for about 20 months in used French oak. All of which makes it uncommon. But Stratus, the Niagara estate that produces the Wildass line, specializes in unusual and captivating elixirs. This lovely, medium-weight wine initially suggested to me slightly aged white Bordeaux (the mix of sauvignon and sémillon would account for that). Then the musky, aromatic qualities of gingery gewürztraminer and zesty riesling chimed in. It's round and honeyed, with candied citrus and ginger notes. Lip-smacking – and a compelling lesson in how some white wines can, in fact, develop good flavour with a bit of age. Various prices in Alberta.

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About the Author
Life columnist

Beppi Crosariol writes about wine and spirits in the Globe Life and Style sections.He has been The Globe's wine and spirits columnist for more than 10 years. In the late 1990s, he also wrote a food trends column called The Biting Edge.Beppi used to cover business law for ROB and previously edited the paper's weekly technology section. More

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