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Certain conservative elements in the religion that is wine worship may shout in protest since this is, after all, white Rioja. Normally, that means traditionally local Spanish varieties such as viura and garnacha blanca. Here's a wine made entirely from sauvignon blanc, a French intruder now permitted for cultivation in the Rioja region. It's certainly not traditional but this is compelling sauvignon, light and brimming with Spanish sunshine. It hints at crisp peach and tropical fruit, turning pleasantly dry and chalky, as in a parched Spanish landscape

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