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pick of the week

Uncommonly rich for a lager, Whistler's aptly named brew takes its cue from a faded production technique. Before the spread of refrigeration technology in the 20th century – responsible for virtually all lagers today – lagers were fermented at warm temperatures generally reserved for fuller-bodied ales. Mid-amber and vaguely hazy in appearance, this limited-production, seasonal offering shows a rounded, almost sweet malty character balanced not so much by familiar lager crispness as by a satisfyingly bracing, bitter edge. A fine brew for hearty burgers.