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The full name of the estate is Upper Bench Winery and Creamery. They make cheese as well as wine, reflecting a gastronomic marriage as well as a literal one. Gavin Miller makes the wine, while wife Shana Miller makes the cheese, having learned the craft from Sandra Chalmers, the original cheesemaker at nearby Poplar Grove Winery. This is terrific pinot, light-medium-bodied and brimming with cherry-jam fruit with an undercurrent of baking spices, set against light tannins. It's a sort of cross between the rich California style of pinot and tighter, brighter red Burgundy. It should improve handsomely with two or three years in the cellar. Excellent for grilled salmon. Available direct,