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The Globe and Mail

Gooderham & Worts Four Grain Whisky, Ontario


The name looms large in Toronto's past. Gooderham & Worts was a gigantic distilling force more than a century ago, pumping out two million gallons of whisky annually from its sprawling cobblestone expanse near the city's lakefront. The brand eventually disappeared, absorbed in a frenzy of consolidation that left only a handful of corporate giants standing. But the name and reputation are back in this superb, succulent and serious spirit crafted by Dr. Don Livermore, the same master blender responsible for the excellent Wiser's Legacy, Wiser's 18-year-old and Lot No. 40. Made from all four major whisky grains – corn, wheat, rye and barley – it's bottled at a whisky-connoisseur's strength of 44.4-per-cent alcohol. That higher proof generally accentuates the sweet vanilla-toffee-caramel and grain characters versus the fruity-floral traits. Robust, this is not your grandpa's Canadian whisky, dishing up a feast of yeasty bread, sweet vanilla-caramel richness on a thick, velvety texture, then delivering a spicy rye-grain kick on the finish. Canadian whisky that should please a single-malt Scotch fan. Available at the LCBO in Ontario at the above price. Various prices in Alberta.

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