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All muscle and no flab, this full-bodied red shares something else in common with a male Renaissance statue: a smoothly buffed surface. Painted Rock owner John Skinner, with the help of Bordeaux-based consultant Alain Sutre, has been sculpting remarkable syrahs (as well as other wines) from a lovely site on the shore of Skaha Lake near Penticton. On the nose, the 2013 syrah is a cracked-pepper extravaganza, with a whiff of Mediterranean herbs to round out the Rhône-like bouquet. Perfectly ripe, the fruit suggests blackberry jam and plum, joined by notes of coffee and chocolate. It's all kept firm by polished, integrated tannins and a judicious tug of acidity. Approachable now, the wine should evolve gracefully for at least a decade. Available direct from the winery,

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