Fruit for this premium bottling comes from Henry of Pelham's oldest estate vineyard, planted starting in 1988. The vines were pared back to yield a limited quantity, at just two tonnes per acre, of highly concentrated berries. And the wine is superb, infused with just the right amount of oak from a combination of new and used French barrels. Full-bodied, silky and remarkably balanced, it suggests luscious grilled pineapple, crème brûlée and lemon zest, with bright balancing acidity. Big but elegant, and frankly better than many California chardonnays at double the price. Available at henryofpelham.com and through winerytohome.com.