Jammy fruit, velvety texture, vibrant acidity, savoury depth – this is a pinot with so much going on. It's undeniably Californian, with a ripe, concentrated berry essence, but it's also smartly tuned, structured and complex enough to appeal to premier-cru red-Burgundy pinot fetishists, with earthy beet and spice notes, supported by well-integrated, rounded tannins. Niagara-raised director of winemaking Elizabeth Grant-Douglas, a Brock University graduate who worked at Inniskillin, Château des Charmes and 13th Street wineries, is at the top of her game down south in Sonoma. The wine is marvellous for rare duck breast or lamb chops. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.