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Made at Still Waters Distillery in Concord, Ont., from single-malt barley (the grain of Scotch fame), it has what many big brands in the vodka category lack: sumptuous flavour. Crafted in small batches (I sampled a bottle from batch B-01), it has a subtly earthy aroma reminiscent of dried hay. On the palate, it is bone-dry (again, not like those "other" subtly sweet, populist brands). Yet the texture is admirably silky nonetheless, carrying notes of cereal grain and pear, with traces of licorice and black pepper, culminating in a smooth finish. Available in small quantities at select LCBO stores in Ontario.

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