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pick of the week

Terrific late-bottled-vintage port as well as a bargain. Dow's classically tight, drier style is in evidence, though of course it's a red port so this is sweet fortified wine (lest there be doubt). The aroma reveals what's in store on the palate: ripe, dried fruit characters of raisin and prune laced with – and this is the main attraction – bold savoury characters of tobacco and baking spices. It's all pulled together by firm tannins and tight acidity. There's also a Scotch-whisky-barrel note for good measure. Christmas cake in a private London club's library. No need to cellar this one; it won't improve with time. And no need to decant because there's no sediment. Consume it within about 10 days of opening. Available in Ontario at the above price, $24.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $13.05 in Quebec (for a half-bottle), $28 in New Brunswick, $23.49 in Prince Edward Island, $14.99 in Nova Scotia (for a half-bottle).

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