Benjamin Bridge Brut 2011, Nova Scotia

A 100-per-cent chardonnay, this bone-dry 2011 sparkling wine is indeed the current release for Benjamin Bridge, an exacting Nova Scotia producer committed to maturing its bubblies in contact with yeast sediment, or lees, for extended periods. This one spent four years on those lees developing doughy depth, toastiness and almond-like nuttiness. More conspicuously, the wine displays an uncanny resemblance to green apples and lemon, with the winery's (and the province's) signature racy acidity very much in evidence. Yes, it rivals fine Champagne. Available in Ontario at the above price, $44.50 direct from the winery, benjaminbridge.com.