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wine review

The bottle is painted silver-grey in such a way that you might expect it to contain, say, coconut-rum liqueur. It stands out on the shelf, for sure. And the wine stands out, too. This is unoaked California chardonnay (yes, there is such a creature) from Monterey County. Yet it's substantial (at 14.7-per-cent alcohol) and creamy nonetheless, with a profile suggesting melted butter on fleshy-ripe tropical fruit. Good acidity for lift. Available in Ontario at the above price, $26.99 in British Columbia (on sale for $24.99 until Dec. 30), $32.93 in Saskatchewan, $24.99 in Manitoba, $23.55 in Quebec, $31.77 in Prince Edward Island, $27.98 in Newfoundland.

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