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The price is rich even for the large majority of single-malt aficionados, but this is sumptuous, complex and very distinctive whisky. Brilliant, in fact. Time spent maturing in casks that once contained port wine has rounded out the deftly balanced 21-year-old. Flavour-wise, it covers a lot of ground, including malty sweetness, honey, buttered nuts, vanilla, toffee, whole-wheat bread and cinnamon. Superb harmony and length. Give me a dram of this, a warm fire and Cecil Taylor on vinyl and I'd be one mighty happy man. $241.95 in B.C., $192.59 in Manitoba, $261 in Quebec.

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