(Editors' note: Following this article, meet the teen tastemakers of today.)
Of all the labels teens slap on each other these days – jock, nerd, stoner, goth – getting tagged as "basic" would be, to use another teenism, The Worst. In a recent survey of 1,000 13-to-32-year-olds conducted by New York-based youth marketing research firm Ypulse, 38 per cent of teens described their personal style as "unique." Meanwhile, 70 per cent of Generation Z-ers told Teen Vogue and the International Council of Shopping Centers that they're "looking forward to trying new trends and styles" this fall.
Although high schools are commonly criticized for breeding social conformity, the act of being a follower has shifted from survival tactic to faux pas – from a fashion standpoint, at least.
A driver of the trend, of course, is social media. "No longer is your social group confined to the people in your high-school halls," says MaryLeigh Bliss, chief content officer at Ypulse. "Over the past 15 to 20 years, teens have been able to find and connect with communities of people who have the same out-of-the-box interests, which are celebrated in a way that could not have happened when there were smaller, isolated communities of teens."
These individual interests are also what attract attention online. "Teenagers have grown up learning innately about personal branding in order to stand out in a sea of billions of people," says Bliss. "If you want followers and likes, you have to display photos and videos that show you doing and wearing interesting things. Otherwise you're going to fade into the background."
The upshot of this constant self-promotion is that teens have become simultaneously savvier and less precious about their personal brands. "With one click of a button, the selfie generation exposes itself to the world," says eTalk reporter and MuchMusic VJ Liz Trinnear. "They have to face who they are instantly, and to a degree they're more in touch with their looks and themselves than we ever were."
No wonder retailers that offer a wide range of styles are faring better than the stores promoting a single, aspirational look. (To wit, Abercrombie & Fitch's total net sales were down 17 per cent over 2014, while H&M's shot up 21 per cent.)
"Stars like Kiernan [Shipka], Jaden [Smith] and Zendaya influence teen fashion by owning their own signature style and encouraging other teens to do the same," says Linda Chang, vice-president of merchandising at Forever 21. "By sporting fun and different trends, these tastemakers pave the way for teens to shop diverse collections that cater to individual styles."
"Teen tastemakers in the entertainment industry have made standing out from the crowd 'cool,' and that is exactly what we want our brand to inspire," says Erica Phelan, president of L.A.-based retailer Runway Luxe. "When I was younger, fitting in was of the utmost importance. Nowadays, our customers are searching for original outfits to be different from their friends."
The magnetism of teen style-setters, however, is about more than just what they're wearing; it also comes from the aura of authenticity they cultivate. Through social media, "these tastemakers offer insider access to their lives," says Trinnear. "They're relatable, they let themselves be raw and there's a sense of self-reflection that makes you think, 'I can do what they're doing. I can be like them.'"
The self-promotion can be painstaking, but the payoff gives teens a sense of pride, says TV producer and former MTV News host Sharlene Chiu. "To have influence in the teen style sphere nowadays, it really comes down to honesty: to be true to yourself and what you really love to wear and to wear it confidently."
Toronto-based stylist Tiffany Briseno, who has worked with under-20 tastemakers such as 16-year-old pop artist Shawn Mendes, agrees. "Whether [he's wearing] a vintage tee or a tailored suit, Shawn truly owns his style, and that gives him a quality his fans love," she says. "Trying new things and being bold in your style choices makes you one of the 'cool kids.'"
Ultimately, the desire among teens to stand out isn't all that surprising when you consider that this is the "special snowflake" generation coming of age. "As stereotypical as that is, there is a grain of truth to it," says Bliss. "Growing up, they did hear from their parents that they were special and different."
In adolescence, those differences have become not only acceptable, but also marketable. "Tavi Gevinson is a great example. She became wildly famous for being different," says Bliss of the quirky fashion blogger turned magazine editor and Broadway star.
The Coles Notes version for parents: Basic is out. As Bliss puts it (for the hopelessly unhip 20-plus set), "Unique is the new cool."
Janna Zittrer rounds up the teentastic tastemakers who are setting the tone for kids’ looks this fall – and explains why, suddenly, standing out among all the followers has never mattered more
The Boundary Breakers: Jaden and Willow Smith (Ages 17 and 14)
Forget about fitting Will and Jada Pinkett Smith’s offspring into a box – in this family, everyone wears the pants (and skirts). Big brother Jaden famously flouts dress codes and gender norms. Cases in point: The actor-slash-rapper showed up to Kim and Kanye’s wedding in a white Batman costume and hit this year’s Coachella music fest in a black sweater dress, white mesh tank and leopard-print socks. Younger sis Willow is equally fearless in her fashion choices, cultivating an intergalactic street style by mixing futuristic fabrics, edgy cuts and tribal prints. No wonder Marc Jacobs chose the singer and budding model to star in his Fall 2015 campaign along with long-time trailblazer, Cher.
Clockwise from left: John & Jenn Kiwi sweater, $135 at Hudson’s Bay. Midnight patent leather ankle boots, $150 at TOPSHOP. Ribbed side-slit sweater, $28 at Forever 21. One Teaspoon Dallas Trackies, $125 at Fitzroy Boutique in Toronto.
The Psychedelic Guru: Arrow De Wilde (Age 16)
When she’s not shooting portraits like her fashion-photographer mom, Autumn de Wilde, or rocking out like drummer dad Aaron Sperske, Arrow keeps busy starring in music videos, posing for brands like 7 For All Mankind and COS and contributing to friend Tavi Gevinson’s Rookie magazine. Her heavy-seventies style is rooted in rare thrift-store finds (think glitter, metallics and fringe, rounded off by vintage band tees) for a disco-fab wardrobe that’s no doubt influenced by former babysitters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the design duo behind the A-list-favourite fashion label Rodarte.
From left: Poncho, $39 at Sears. Smile leather wooden clogs, $105 at TOPSHOP. Light-wash flared jeans, $35 at Forever 21.
The Glam Bohemian: Zendaya Coleman (Age 18)
Even though her 2015 Oscar outfit was controversially slammed by former Fashion Police co-host Giuliana Rancic, Zendaya is regularly praised for taking red-carpet risks. The California-born singer and actress is a free spirit, who has been photographed in an oversized bowler hat paired with a tailored black jumpsuit on one occasion and in shoulder-grazing hoops worn with a ruffled, off-the-shoulder crop top on another. When it comes to statement-making style, it’s clear she’s content – in the words of her best friend Taylor Swift – to let the haters hate.
From left: Wide-brim fedora, $19 at Forever 21. Faux-fur coat, $199 at select H&M stores. Halter-tie slit maxi dress, $96 through Runway Luxe.
The Cool Kids: Romeo, Cruz and Brooklyn Beckham (Ages 12, 10 and 16)
With fashion designer mom Victoria and model dad David setting an example, the Beckham sons come by their style cred honestly. Although dressing like dad might be a mortifying thought for millennials, these boys flaunt their father’s influence with aplomb. It takes a certain confidence to make casual look this chic, and these boys are benefitting big time by building on what they were born with: Brooklyn landed a modelling contract this year and already has several editorials under his belt, while Romeo scored the starring role in Burberry’s 2014 holiday campaign at the age of 12. Cruz, the youngest Beckham son, has only recently hit double digits, but he likely isn’t far behind.
Clockwise from left: Edam jacket, $165 at Rudsak. ELOANIA sneaker, $90 at Little Burgundy. TOPMAN Denim Regular Fit Sport Shirt, $65 at TOPSHOP. Fidelity Jimi Raven Vintage jeans, $247 at select stores and through Fidelity Denim.
The Fashion Enthusiast: Kiernan Shipka (Age 15)
Her character Sally Draper’s behaviour might have been erratic on Mad Men, but Kiernan’s real-life style is decidedly considered. The actress consistently strikes a balance between avant-garde and age appropriate, bringing a confidence to the red carpet that’s beyond her years. Looking fresh-faced in fashion-forward ensembles from brands such as Giamba, Delpozo and Miu Miu, Kiernan proves you’re never too young to be taken seriously on the celebrity style circuit.
Clockwise from left: Zelicia shoe $120 at ALDO. Alice skirt, $42 through Runway Luxe. Scallop Lace Bodycon dress, $75 at TOPSHOP. Faux-leather asymmetrical skirt, $27 at Forever 21.