John Galliano, Dior's brilliant designer, told me recently that when it comes to fashion, one can never have too many ideas. I couldn't agree with him more. But it's the manner in which ideas are presented that often makes or breaks a collection.
Toronto has finally come of age by staging a semi-annual fashion week that is getting people excited and proving to be the perfect platform to get designers noticed. Now in its seventh year, L'Oréal Fashion Week was catapulted to higher credibility last season, when organizers decided to follow leads set by New York and Paris and stage the collections under a glorious big top.
The fact that this tent was pitched in the heart of downtown, in the middle of Nathan Phillips Square, added an air of theatricality that had been sorely missing in the past. This time around, for the fall 2008 offerings, the dramatic venue inspired designers to rise to the occasion and stage collections that were not only wearable, but watchable as well.
Visions, however, were disparate: Our designers are at different stages of evolution, and the less-seasoned labels face the challenge of learning how to tell compelling stories rather than just spewing out grab bags of concepts with little rhyme or reason.
Project Runway Canada winner Evan Biddell, a spunky young designer from Calgary, had some good ideas, and working at veteran glam king Wayne Clark's atelier these past few months has certainly helped him. "The biggest thing he's taught me is to enjoy what I'm doing," Biddell said post-show.
His passion is evident. Biddell's take on slinky black cocktail wear was appealing, and his edgy cuts and commitment to using only sustainable fabrics are to be commended. But his overall style narrative seemed disjointed, with no real dramatic build-up.
Other young designers, such as Toronto's Nada Yousif and Vancouver's Evan and Dean (Raymond Boutet and Lyle Reimer), also launched into fall with plenty of gusto, but one couldn't help question whether these offerings were really ready for the big runway.
Some of the week's best offerings came from seasoned pros, such as Toronto's Joeffer Caoc, Montreal's Andy Thê-Anh and Quebec's Denis Gagnon. With the support of a new financial backer, Caoc can finally indulge in lush fabrics. From silk and pony skin to ostrich feathers, he aims to dress modern women with no-nonsense sensuality.
Thê-Anh's range of luxuriously tailored day suits and sensual evening wear proved to be one of the week's most sophisticated collections.
Then there's Gagnon, whose penchant for drama is unparalleled in this country. His voluminous knits and sexy leather pieces are timeless and wild - the perfect addition to any wardrobe longing for the "wow factor."
Other tried and true designers, such as Calgary's Paul Hardy and Toronto's Kim Newport-Mimran of Pink Tartan, turned out collections consistent with what we have come to expect from their labels. But they got courageous when it came to styling. Hardy, who is convinced that women usually shop separately for tops and bottoms, actually showed bottomless tops and topless bottoms. (There was a big focus on vintage-inspired undergarments here.)
Pink Tartan's theme was "Pristine Punk," which led Newport-Mimran to team her lovely, edgy dresses and suits and hip little coats with big honking Dr. Martens boots. The juxtaposition was jarring and distracted from the fact that the label is poised to dress women of all ages and sensibilities.
Joyce Gunhouse and Judy Cornish, the gals behind Comrags, celebrated their 25th anniversary in the business by presenting impressive, finely tailored tweed pieces, gowns and coats, complete with salt stains on the bottom - a witty take on all that inconvenient snow.
Greta Contstantine, a relatively new, theatrical label by Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong, impressed with its architectural approach, while David Dixon illustrated why he's the master of the little black dress.
And Preloved was pure delight: This clever label concocts fun and funky pieces from previously worn garments, whimsically pumping new life into old material.
The eclecticism on the Canadian fashion stage is exhilarating - and the variety of style direction is on par with what we're seeing on the international fashion front. Perhaps the greatest metaphor for the high/low mix that's making the world go 'round was the presentation by Joe Fresh. This ultra-hip, ultra-accessible label carried at Loblaws is the brainchild of style meister Joe Mimran. For fall, Joe Fresh is suggesting a chic little jacket-and-jeans look.
But more inspiring than the cheap and cheerful clothing was the fact that Mimran brought top model Coco Rocha to Toronto to walk in his show.
Rocha, a Vancouver native, is the hottest thing on the international runways these days. To have her come home to Canada, remind us that you don't have to spend lots to look good, and heighten the profile of the country's premier fashion event was one of the most heartening displays of the week.
Now all we have to do is hone in on what our homegrown talents have to offer and shop Canadian. After all, our national style identity depends on it.
Jeanne Beker is the host of FashionTelevision and the editor-in-chief of FQ magazine
*****
Top trends
Back to black
Nearly all the designers, from stalwarts such as Andy Thê-Anh to newcomers like Lucian Matis, had it made in the shade.
Purple reigns
Best in glowing satin, grape tones made the scene at David Dixon, Pink Tartan and others.
Eighties revival
From Bowie and Joy Division blasting at Denis Gagnon to boot-wearing models bouncing to Blondie's Call Me at Pink Tartan, many designers channelled the confidence of the Me decade.
Hats on
Sleek little equestrian caps hoofed it down the runway at Joe Fresh and David Dixon.
Skinny legs and all
Despite a tentative uprising of slouchy trousers, the cigarette-pant silhouette is not going anywhere.
LBD love
This summer may be all about the maxi-dress, but come fall, little cocktail frocks will be de rigueur once again.
Sock it to me
Coloured tights wowed at Preloved and two-toned Prada-esque knee socks looked, well, still fresh at Joe Fresh.
Jeanne Beker