Last year, Suitable suggested that the television series Mad Men was prompting people to consider a return to such late-1960s wardrobe essentials as grey flannel suits for men and sweater sets for women.
While the looks of Don Draper et al have timeless appeal, there's another nighttime drama playing out that has the potential to affect the way we dress for work.
Damages, set at a present-day New York litigation firm, makes a subtler statement on office attire, if only because the looks are not all that different from what people wear in real life. The finessed and fashionable costumes of lead characters Patty Hewes and Ellen Parsons represent the gold standard in contemporary power dressing.
During the second season premiere, which aired last night on Showcase, a new character, Sam Arsenault, tells Ms. Hewes (played by Glenn Close): "Girls today could learn something from you, Patty. You know how to wear a skirt. But you're one of the boys; always have been."
Back in the days of Ally McBeal, the lawyer with a kooky imagination, this comment may have referred to one of actress Calista Flockhart's miniskirt suits. But Ms. Close is in her early 60s and, as we begin a new year in a sobered up economic climate, the chicest hemline for the office is one that grazes the knee. Most often, her skirts are paired with fitted jackets, beautifully simple knitwear, tailored shirts and killer heels. Her hair is the definition of perfection.
Ms. Parsons (played by Rose Byrne) is a sharp law school graduate thrown into a maelstrom of murder and deception. Like any young woman in Manhattan who is ambitious, successful and style-minded, her wardrobe consists of shift dresses that boast directional silhouettes, structured jackets and minimal colour. She even opts for black polish (on perfectly manicured short nails).
In a telephone interview from New York, costume designer Frank Fleming says that the new season afforded him an opportunity to take more risks while remaining within a corporate context.
"Last year was more straightforward," he says of Ms. Close's character. "Now, there's a broader spectrum to her wardrobe - the lines are a bit cleaner but still strong.
"For Ellen," he continues, "there's been a huge change, primarily because last year she was a little green and now she's coming back with more confidence and edge, and she's embracing New York in terms of its elements of money and fashion."
To be sure, her closet is furnished with such defining designers such as Narciso Rodriguez, Prada and Givenchy, whereas Mr. Fleming opts for Akris, Loro Piana, Brunello Cuccinelli and Domenico Vacca (translation: the best of the Italian best) for Ms. Hewes.
These wardrobes are obviously beyond most of our budgets. But he insists that people need not feel pressured to buy the luxury labels to get the look.
"The reality is that for our show, it's important that clothes look fresh. But in real life, I believe that people should be mixing high-end pieces with lower-end pieces."
Pay enough attention to the majority of movies or television series and you'll notice that the characters never seem to wear the same outfit twice. With Damages, as with real life, the same jacket or shirt will reappear throughout various episodes. This may matter only to someone with an obsessive eye for sartorial details, but it helps reinforce the characters as relatable to everyday professionals.
Were it not for wardrobe rotation, Mr. Fleming guesses that to get Ms. Hewes dressed costs about $5,000 (U.S.) an outfit and $4,000 for Ms. Parsons. He adds that statement pieces should always be worn with less frequency because they're so identifiable. "I will save something major for every fifth or sixth episode."
For those who would like to channel the looks from Damages without doing damage to their chequing account, Mr. Fleming recommends Zara or Brooks Brothers (which ships to Canada).
"[Zara]does a great job of knocking off nice pieces. The fabrics are better for men than women," he says, while offering that men who are "long and lean" can get away with buying Zara suits. I would add Club Monaco and J. Crew to the mix. The latter has a "suiting" category that includes such conservative yet contemporary pieces as pencil skirts in a cotton-hemp blend and stretch wool pinstripe jackets.
Bottom line when shopping, Mr. Fleming says: "It doesn't have to be expensive, it just has to be the right season and it has to be the right cut." By season he means that depending on the direction a retailer takes, people may find infinite work options in one month only to find nothing worth buying a few months later.
Mr. Fleming says he hopes that viewers are able to pick up style tips from the show. His personal favourite for Ms. Byrne: a simple, high-waisted, cap-sleeve black dress from Givenchy. "She's never looked more fantastic and it was just a black dress," he gushes.
As for Ms. Close, he lists a camel Yves Saint Laurent sweater, a nude skinny belt, brown skirt and a pair of iridescent Prada shoes. In explaining that ensemble, he underscores the comment made by Mr. Arsenault. "She just looked pretty and soft."
Amy Verner