Highlighter hues have been creeping onto the international runways over the past few years, but this season’s selection, from a sheer acid green gown at Valentino to Tom Ford’s moulded magenta cyborg crop top, seem to be designed to guarantee you’ll stop traffic. At Jacquemus, whose fashion show took place in the middle of an idyllic Provençal lavender field in France, a fuchsia catwalk that stretched as far as the eye could see was offset by soft tangerine lace and coral knits that wowed even the most stringent minimalists. Pieces in green, from apple to lime to mint, are a good place to start.
Jacquemus La Robe Saudade gathered canvas mini dress, US$640 through net-a-porter.com.
The 1970s can feel as an all too common inspiration point for designers, but this time around, it was the decade’s suiting (think Annie Hall meets Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking) that paid homage to feminist dressing from its second wave. Three-piece suits made the biggest impact and were done up with sharp collared shirts at Louis Vuitton, ruffled blouses at Celine and vests everywhere else. A looser approach featured Bermuda shorts at Givenchy, Chloé and Bottega Veneta. If you feel like the head-to-toe look is a bit much, dip your toe into the trend by adding a waistcoat to your closet and wear it with everything from jeans to shorts.
Maggie Marilyn striped blazer, $1,125, striped cotton pants, $535, at Hudson’s Bay.
What’s in is out, at least as far as the typically hidden elements of our wardrobes are concerned. Lingerie seemed to be making appearances everywhere this season, and before you clutch your pearls, rest assured, there are multiple ways to adopt this trend, from a subtle exposed garter belt at Helmut Lang to a matching skirt and bra top at Maryam Nassir Zadeh. All ends of the sex appeal spectrum were on display at Mugler, from a subtle hook-and-eye fastened blazer to a parade of sheer materials. If you’re interested in going down this path and don’t already have a slip dress in your wardrobe, it’s a good place to start.
Beaufille slip dress, AUD$720 through theundone.com.
ARTS AND CRAFTS
Sustainability has been top of mind for many lately, and while it certainly can’t be reduced to a seasonal trend, a handmade aesthetic figured prominently in many spring collections through upcycled details, natural materials and a focus on craftsmanship. At Alexander McQueen, designer Sarah Burton repurposed lace, organza and tulle from collections previously designed by her and McQueen himself. Homespun-looking crochet numbers were everywhere, from a delicate woven cape at Loewe, to a multicoloured floor-length dress at Marni. Meanwhile, woven raffia bags were given the high gloss treatment at Prada, Fendi and Gucci.
Cult Gaia Banu fringed woven raffia clutch, US$275 through net-a-porter.com.
Mini bags might have been last season’s fashion headline, but bigger seems to be better than ever right now. Often worn across the body, giant sacks were shown everywhere from Hermès, where options were done up in silk, to Nanushka, where the carryalls were made from ruched vegan leather. Bottega Veneta weaved buttery leather across a larger-than-life hobo style. While a tiny purse can barely fit your mobile phone, these supersized totes allow you to bring along every worldly possession you might need throughout your day.
Bottega Veneta ‘Veneta’ large intrecciatio leather shoulder bag, US $2,425 through net-a-porter.com.
It will come as a surprise to absolutely no one with an Instagram account that the 1990s are a major cultural influence in 2020. In footwear, that means the return of the polarizing square toe. Beloved for its sturdy practicality, but despised for basically the same reason, the silhouette trumps anything with a point in the shoe world. At the shows, they made for a strangely fresh take on calf-height boots at Balenciaga, while appearing uniquely elegant on heeled slip-ons at Proenza Schouler. Channel squared-off shoe fan, Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw, and treat your toes to some breathing room this season.
Denton cream leather boot, $228 at L’Intervalle.
ONE FOR ALL
Monochrome men’s wear is trending, and no, a closet full of Bay Street navy blues doesn’t count. We’re talking soft pastels and neutrals, which give this take on tailoring a refined, even delicate refresh. Balmain used baby pink satin to soften its boxy cuts, while Acne Studios showed head-to-toe sky blue looks. Givenchy started its lineup with a roomy three-piece suit incorporating a long jacket in a two-toned blue and lavender shot silk. Meanwhile, the elegance of Christian Dior’s golden era was reworked into the label’s men’s collection, with designer Kim Jones draping an ombré sash over a grey silk jacket.
Blazer, $290, trousers, $150 at COS.
When one pictures how this season’s artsy prints were made, the image that comes to mind is of Jackson Pollack going at a canvas with his brush in a spatter-filled studio. Painterly treatments were in abundance including acid wash spots on head-to-toe red denim at Stella McCartney and watercolour drips on a silk top at Berlutti. At Rochas, a pair of paint-splattered utility pants made the model look like he had arrived straight from his house painting side hustle.
Helmut Lang paint splatter standard hoodie, US$265 at Ssense.com.
The concept of the “murse” has evolved from an anomaly to a sartorial staple in the modern man’s wardrobe. At Hermès, a streamlined belt bag was carried by hand. Dior’s famed saddle styles, created in collaboration with artist Daniel Arsham to pay tribute to former Dior designer John Galliano’s iconic newsprint motif, were worn cross body. Even Banana Republic offers a messenger bag/fanny pack hybrid.
Jelly crossbody bag/fanny pack, $74 at Banana Republic.
DARE TO BARE
Models were unbuttoning their shirts left, right and centre for labels such as Saint Laurent and Ami, while those at Louis Vuitton were dressed in completely transparent tops. The styling cue conjured up memories of the ubiquitous American Apparel deep V-neck T-shirts of the mid-2000s, but there’s a way to wear the trend without looking too man busty. A convertible collar shirt opens up a bit deeper than a classic button up without dipping lower than you care to go.
Kenzo short-sleeve shirt, $325 at Holt Renfrew.