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This recipe is reprinted from Pellegrino Artusi's cookbook, Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well (1891). When I learned to make this dish at the Casa Artusi cooking school, we made the pasta from scratch with fine flour prominently labelled "Manitoba 00" on the bag - though Italian-American cookbooks say the best substitute is a combination of all-purpose and cake flour.

Cappelletti all'uso di romagna

½ pound cheese (all ricotta or half ricotta and half cacio raveggiolo, a soft, mild, creamy cheese)

half a capon breast sautéed in butter, seasoned with salt and pepper and finely minced

½ cup grated Parmigiano

1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk

a pinch of nutmeg and grated lemon rind

a pinch of salt

Roll a thin sheet of dough made with 2 eggs, 2¼ cup of flour, add a drop of water and no more. Knead for 15 minutes until smooth and firm and quite elastic. Separate into two, flour your work surface and roll out and away, flipping and rolling until you have a sheet that is almost transparent, as thin as a dime or thinner if you can manage. Cut into ¼-inch strips for tagiatelle or use for filled pasta.

For cappelletti: cut into disks about 2 inches in diameter, put a teaspoon of filling on each disk, fold over to make half moons, then pinch the ends of the half moons together. Wrap the half moon around your finger, giving it a half twist so that the rounded edge stands upright, and pinch the ends together.

Cook the cappelletti in broth, 4 to 5 minutes, until al dente. Make two dozen per person, and serve soup with Parmigiano on the side.