Skip to main content

Once a year it becomes a busy place as whales, walruses and other creatures wait for icy straights to melt

Margo Pfeiff and fellow travellers smell the walruses before they see them. On a pancake of ice, they are massive blobs of brown and pink blubber adorned with mustaches and tusks, grunting, snorting and, yes, farting.Margo Pfeiff

1 of 6

The polar bear we were following swims into a fog bank that blocks our route to walrus waters, she writes.

2 of 6

Visitors to Igloolik stray far onto the ice to see migrating bowhead whales gather by the thousands for two weeks in July.Margo Pfeiff

3 of 6

A bowhead whale smashes through 60 centimetres of ice with the distinctive bump on the top of its skull.Margo Pfeiff

4 of 6

Lunch tastes so much better when you're eating on an ice floe overlooking the Foxe Basin.Margo Pfeiff

5 of 6

Igloolik, home to artists, an Inuit circus troupe and the Rockin’ Walrus Festival, is Nunavut’s arts capital.Margo Pfeiff

6 of 6