Fairmont Hamilton Princess
76 Pitts Bay Rd., Hamilton, fairmont.com. Rooms start at about $600 a night.
Beach or city? It’s a question familiar to those booking a tropical vacation – a balance between the need to kick back and a reluctance to give up all urban stimuli. Beachfront resorts have their charms, but often leave travellers feeling stranded and a long, hot bus ride away from any worthwhile shopping, nightlife or attractions. On the island of Bermuda, however, the historic “Pink Palace” has been solving that dilemma for more than a century: Fairmont Hamilton Princess balances the best of both worlds.
Set on the aquamarine waters of Hamilton harbour, the hotel opened its doors in 1885, inviting winter-weary northerners to sail via steamship out into the middle of the Atlantic. Since then, the grand, pink Princess has undergone numerous expansions and updates. The most recent, $90-million (U.S.) renovation was completed this past summer, updating suites and adding a 60-berth marina, a restaurant built out over the water and, importantly, a seaside infinity pool complete with cabanas.
Location, location
Hamilton is the island’s largest town and its capital, and the Princess is arguably the most prominent building on its skyline. The hotel is less than a 10-minute walk from Hamilton’s bars, restaurants, galleries – and there are ample opportunities for high-end shopping along Front Street. While the hotel doesn’t have a beach, there is one at its sister property, the Fairmont Southampton, and the hotel offers a direct (and free) ferry service from its new marina to Southampton’s exclusive beach club.
Best amenity
The Princess’s new pool area brings the sea even closer, with chaise lounges set right beside the harbour, plus cabanas, a hot tub and a heated salt-water infinity pool where you can float in a lounger, drink in hand, while watching the sailboats drift by.
Eat in or eat out?
While some top-drawer restaurants are tantalizingly close, just steps away in Hamilton, the Princess has long been known locally for its cuisine. Its newest addition is 1609 Bar and Restaurant (named for the year the Sea Venture wrecked on the island, leading to its settlement by the British). It has been built without walls, directly over the sea, and is a lovely place to come in the evening as calm, tropical breezes blow in from all sides. But it’s even better during the day, when you can take in uninterrupted views of the brilliant water while downing a Dark and Stormy (the national cocktail) with fresh oysters and ceviche.
Whom you’ll meet
Unlike the stodgy crowd that wintered here back in the 19th century, today’s guests are a dynamic crew who often fly in for a short getaway. Bermuda enjoys direct flight connections from a number of major cities – London, New York, Toronto – so guests tend to be cosmopolitan and, increasingly, young.
If I could change one thing
Typical of a property that is always a work in progress, the Princess presents a bit of a labyrinth. With wings and passageways jutting out in all directions, a simple trip down to the pool or up to the executive lounge for breakfast can very quickly become a big adventure (or a complicated, confusing journey, depending on your perspective). More signs are needed.
The writer was a guest of the hotel.