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Author Bruce Kirkby, Dave Quinn and John Bergenske hike through the Flathead Valley basin.

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Bruce Kirkby ascends Couldrey Ridge.

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Dave Quinn and John Bergenske ski before the high ramparts of Wall Lake.

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John Bergenske and Dave Quinn set out in heavy snow.Bruce Kirkby for The Globe and Mail

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Metal obelisks, marking the official U.S./Canada border, appeared every few kilometres.

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Dave Quinn and John Bergenske melt snow on the portable wood stove.

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A grove of trembling aspen near "Magic Corner."

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