Good Taste
 

January 19, 2020

 

EDITOR'S NOTE: Apologies – an earlier version of the newsletter went out with the wrong story links. January is often a month of cutting back after the over-indulgence of the holidays, so on that theme Christopher Waters has recommandations for well-made wines that also offer good value, and Tara O'Brady has a recipe for a humble but delicious garlic soup made with kitchen staples. Lastly, we have reviews of two vegan-friendly restaurants in Vancouver. What have you vowed to cut back on this month? E-mail and let us know. You can also send your questions on wine and Christopher will answer a selection in the newsletter and on our website.

 
Need to know
 
Are bagels the new lattes? Toronto’s Primrose Bagel Company thinks so
  Are bagels the new lattes? Toronto’s Primrose Bagel Company thinks so
 

Lara Rabinovitch

Inside Primrose Bagel Company, opening its doors in Toronto’s St. Clair West neighbourhood on Jan. 10, there’s a large picture window with a view directly into the kitchen. There, at almost any point in the day, one of the bakery’s staff members laboriously rolls bagels by hand. It’s a rare sight for a bagel shop – but that’s the point.

 
Primrose’s co-owners are Sam Davis and Jesse Rapoport, two young chefs who’ve worked at some of Toronto’s top indie restaurants, and they are determined to restore the largely forgotten tradition of hand-rolled bagels.

 
 
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Drinks
 
These benchmark bottles deliver quality wine and value for money
  These benchmark bottles deliver quality wine and value for money
 

Christopher Waters

Even if you didn’t splash out with holiday spending, January is commonly viewed as an austerity month. Most virtuous New Year’s resolutions call for self-improvement via a marked reduction in excess, be it eating, drinking or spending. Of course, by the time you read this, most of those goals will have long since been abandoned or significantly downgraded: Perhaps I shouldn’t eat the whole pizza …

 
No matter where you stand on the opportunity for a fresh start in 2020 with January passing the midway point, there is sure to be interest in well-made wines that retail at a decent price. To that end, here’s a selection of wines I’ve tasted recently that stood out and delivered value for the money. The list includes some widely available labels that might not represent the pinnacle for their respective styles, but can certainly be viewed as benchmarks for quality.

 
 
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Will increased U.S. tariffs on European wines affect Canadian consumers?
  Will increased U.S. tariffs on European wines affect Canadian consumers?
 

Christopher Waters

 
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Food
 
This seemingly humble garlic soup is comfort in a bowl
This seemingly humble garlic soup is comfort in a bowl
 

Tara O'Brady

My craving for this vegetarian, dairy-free, comparatively lean soup is not tied to any après-holiday dietary restriction. First, I do not subscribe to guilt associated with days of revelry. Second, and more importantly, this soup is undeniably delicious, full stop.

 
I grant that it is the antithesis to the cooking and eating of the past few weeks. It is arguably austere in terms of ingredients, indulgence and effort. There is little chopping, and most of the cooking is unattended on the stove. The flavors are straightforward and bold, but unchallenging. There’s olive oil, but not much of it. And the whole thing is based on kitchen staples, collected in a bowl of pale, beige comfort. It seems almost humble.

 
 
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How do you cook and eat artichokes?
  How do you cook and eat artichokes?
 

Lucy Waverman

 
Food columnist
 
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Do I need a good kitchen knife, or a great one?
Do I need a good kitchen knife, or a great one?
 

Margaret Grisdale

 
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Restaurants
 
How Vancouver’s Chancho Tortilleria and Beetbox restaurants make eating vegan easy
  How Vancouver’s Chancho Tortilleria and Beetbox restaurants make eating vegan easy
 

Alexandra Gill

 
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Experience the spectacular beauty of France in 2020 on a Globe and Mail River Cruise!
 
Whether you choose Bordeaux (May 25-June 3) or South of France (June 20-30), your favourite Globe journalists will journey alongside, sharing their insights on the day’s pressing stories and informing various excursions that celebrate France’s history, culture and wine. For further details on both of these amazing journeys, visit us at www.GlobeandMailCruises.com
 
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