Globe Wine & Spirits
 

November 15, 2018

 

ASK BEPPI CROSARIOL

Why do I generally dislike older European wines?
  Why do I generally dislike older European wines?
 

Beppi Crosariol

 
 
 Wine & Spirits Columnist

The question

I find I don’t like aged reds from Spain, Italy or France as much as those from the New World. To me they tend to taste fine at first but the fruitiness disappears within minutes and the wine becomes earthy and harsh. I’d love to know why.

The answer

I would not say your assessment is true of all older European reds, by any means, but I sense where you’re coming from. Old World reds tend to be less fruity to begin with. As they mellow in the bottle, that fruitiness can diminish considerably, giving way to secondary and tertiary characters dominated by such savoury notes as leather, earth, mushroom and meatiness. It generally takes much longer for New World reds to cross that line. Why? Because most vineyards in New World countries are located in consistently sunny regions that produce sweetly ripe fruit. It simply takes longer for that rich fruitiness to surrender ground.

You may just not like the taste of older red wine, period, and that’s perfectly fine. Most wines are not meant to be cellared anyway. So, you’ll save money and frustration by buying and drinking what you like rather than drinking what people say you should like.

Beppi Crosariol will once again be participating as The Globe’s wine expert on the July 2019 Globe and Mail Seine River Cruise. For details on how to reserve your cabin on this voyage down the Seine from Paris to Normandy visit GlobeNormandyCruise.com.

E-mail your wine and spirits questions to Beppi Crosariol. Look for answers to select questions to appear in the Wine & Spirits newsletter and on The Globe and Mail website.

 
 
More stories below advertisement
 
 

BEPPI'S EXCLUSIVE WINE REVIEWS

  Township 7 Viognier 2017, British Columbia - A superb viognier from an excellent producer
 
Full Story
 
  Kim Crawford Small Parcels Favourite Homestead Pinot Gris 2016, New Zealand - A medium-bodied and supple white, with a silky texture chiselled by a fine blade of acidity
 
Full Story
 
  Alta Vista Premium Cabernet Franc 2016, Argentina - Full, gutsy and smooth yet with sticky, dusty tannins for structure and posture
 
Full Story
 
  Vieni Momenti Sparkling Wine, Ontario - Don’t expect Champagne-level quality, but do expect decent value
 
Full Story
 
  Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2017, France - Dry, with added notes of crisp, underripe peach, lemon zest and watermelon
 
Full Story
 

MORE ON WINE AND SPIRITS

Wines under $20 that wine professionals drink at home
  Wines under $20 that wine professionals drink at home
 
Full Story
 
Sherry experiencing a raw rebirth
  Sherry experiencing a raw rebirth
 
Full Story
 

BEPPI'S PICK OF THE WEEK

  Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey, United States - This Kentucky rye is silky, polished and smooth on entry
 
Full Story
 

RESTAURANT REVIEWS AND NEWS

A peek behind the Iron Chef curtain
A peek behind the Iron Chef curtain
 
Full Story
 
The rise of chef ‘supergroups’ means more creative and experimental kitchens across the country
The rise of chef ‘supergroups’ means more creative and experimental kitchens across the country
 
Full Story
 

WHAT TO EAT NOW

This dish of béchamel braised onions offers layers of goodness
This dish of béchamel braised onions offers layers of goodness
 
Full Story
 
I love pasta, but don’t want the calories and carbs. What can I use?
I love pasta, but don’t want the calories and carbs. What can I use?
 
Full Story
 
Cut back on plastic pollution by making these grocery store staples at home
Cut back on plastic pollution by making these grocery store staples at home
 
Full Story
 

FOR SUBSCRIBERS

Sleep-deprived? Our exhaustive guide to getting a good night’s rest, from the science of sleep to pillows and mattresses to solutions for snoring
 
View More
 

reader tip

Readers who log in can read a few more articles for free. Registration is free. What are you waiting for?
 
View More
 
 

About Globe Wine & Spirits
This newsletter gives you a head start on your weekend wine shopping with exclusive online wine reviews and ratings, a preview of Beppi Crosariol's Saturday column, wine and spirits Q&As, videos and more.

If you do not wish to receive this newsletter anymore, please refer to the unsubscribe link at the bottom of every email communication. Or, you can log into The Globe’s website and manage your preferences under Communication Settings.

Can't log in yet? Registration is free.

To keep Globe newsletters out of your spam folder, please add Globe Newsletters to your address book.

If you have any feedback or questions about any Globe newsletters, please reach out to Scott Adams directly.