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In Jordan, mealtime is always a social event. The world slows right down and everyone pulls up a seat at the table to share the small nibbles called mezze and large family-style platters of rice and meat fragrant with spices.
Hospitality is generous here, no matter how modest the host’s means. A “Jordanian invitation” means guests are expected to arrive with empty hands and leave with full stomachs. Increasingly, they also leave with expanded culinary repertoires, thanks to popular cooking classes like the ones taught at Petra Kitchen in Wadi Musa.
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“There’s a quote in Jordan and the Middle East that says something along the lines of ‘Even when you’re full, you can still always eat 40 more bites of food,’ ” wrote the blogger Mark Wiens of Migrationology.com. “It’s a clear reflection on the importance of generosity and hospitality and the significance of food in the Jordanian culture.”
And not just food. Coffee has long been an essential part of social life in this country. Now, a small but vibrant wine-and-beer culture is emerging – or, perhaps, one should say, “re-emerging,” since archeologists have discovered ancient presses that date back millennia, long before France planted its first vines.
“This is the wine that is the grandfather of the wines that you have in Europe,” winemaker Omar Zumot, whose Saint George Syrah and Gewürztraminer were the first Jordanian wines to be listed in the prestigious Guide Hachett des Vins, noted in an interview with CNN.
Every meal in this ancient desert country inevitably begins with the phrase Sahtain wa ’afiya, meaning, “I wish you health and well-being.” With that in mind, herewith are 25 Jordanian essential sips and bites.
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Cuisine staples
Jordan is home to some of the oldest olive trees in the world, as well as one of its biggest producers of olive oil. Olives are both ubiquitous and considered holy.
Food is flavoured with fresh herbs and spices, most notably za’atar, an aromatic blend of dried herbs (thyme, oregano, marjoram and savoury), sesame seeds and sumac, which grows wild in Jordan.
Dairy often means yogurt, the creamy strained version called labneh or jameed, a dried yogurt that is the main ingredient in the national dish mansaf.
Bite-sized delicacies
Mezze are popular snacks served in the region, from Greece through to Central Asia. Here in the Levant, mezze are often served at the beginning of multi-course feasts. They will almost inevitably include the fried chickpea patty called falafel, as well as the tangy chickpea spread known as hummus, and moutabel, a smoky roasted eggplant dip. Stuffed vegetables are also popular, especially warek enab (grape leaves) and kousa mahshi (zucchini), which are filled with rice, ground meat, onions and spices.
And don’t forget shish kebabs, those grilled skewers of minced, spiced lamb that are among the country’s most popular street foods. Other street foods include manakish (bread dough topped with spices, olive oil and cheese) and shawarma (slices of spit-roasted meat usually wrapped in flatbread).
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Veggie time
Vegetables, such as tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant and onions, with fresh herbs play a huge role in Jordanian cuisine. Salads are important, especially tabbouleh (parsley, tomatoes, garlic and bulgur wheat in lemon–olive oil dressing), Arabic salad (cucumbers, tomatoes and bell peppers) and the fried-bread salad fattoush.
The main events
Mansaf, the national dish of Jordan, is served at all important occasions. Indeed, it is an occasion on its own. It takes hours to prepare and almost as long to enjoy properly. The dish consists of Arabic rice, a rich broth made from jameed and either lamb or chicken. It is traditionally eaten communally and without utensils.
Maqluba is similar but less momentous – a mix of meat, rice and spices cooked together in a pot that is then flipped onto a platter, so the rice stays on the bottom and the meat on top. Likewise, meat, rice and vegetables are mixed together and roasted in underground ovens called zarb, which is also the name of this dish traditional to the Bedouin.
Sweet finishes
Sweets are often drenched in honey or syrup and stuffed with nuts or dates (think: halva and baklava). Among them are hareeseh, a baked semolina-and-coconut square, and the rose-syrup-soaked cheese pastry known as kanafeh.
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Essential thirst quenchers
Coffee, especially the thick Turkish style, is not just a wake-me-up but also an important part of social life, replete with complex rituals. It is always polite to accept coffee when it is offered, as the beverage symbolizes hospitality and goodwill. Mint tea and, occasionally, the anise-scented spirit known as arak are served as digestifs after a heavy meal.
Jordan also has a small but rich beer and wine tradition dating back thousands of years. In 2012 Jordan’s first modern craft brewery, Carakale Brewery, opened near Amman, and grapes have once again been planted where ancient vines grew.
Fine wine, delicious food and generous hospitality – it’s the Jordanian way of dining. Sahtain wa ’afiya.
This content was produced by The Globe and Mail's Globe Edge Content Studio. The Globe's editorial department was not involved in its creation.