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Target market: gangsta rappers and the Chinese nouveaux riches. How times have changed for cognac, the spirit which used to be the preserve of aging white men. Rémy Cointreau, which released results on Tuesday, has managed both trends nicely. U.S. sales growth was 15 per cent in the first half of the year, but the real star of the show is China, where Rémy's top-end brands appeal to those who want to show off their wealth. Its Louis XIII brand, which retails at $2,500 (U.S.) per bottle, is selling particularly well. The company has a 60-per-cent share of the premium "extra" segment of the Chinese cognac market.

But like other consumer companies it has been hit by concerns about China – the shares lost a fifth of their value between mid-August and mid-October. Rémy's cognac growth in the second quarter of its financial year was 8 per cent, against 38 per cent in the first. Was this just quarterly noise or is the Chinese thirst for pricey spirits starting to abate?

Rémy's quarterly numbers tend to show plenty of noise – over the past 12 quarters, cognac sales growth has averaged 16 per cent, but within that the numbers have ranged from a 55-per-cent rise to a 10-per-cent dip. A single quarter at 8 per cent does not quite make it time to run for the hills. But Bernstein does expect the rate of growth in China to slow, from 25 per cent over the past few years to 15 per cent.

That raises the question of whether Rémy's earnings rating is sustainable. The company is a purer play than others on Chinese demand for spirits so its shares, at 24 times forecast earnings, enjoy a premium to Diageo and Pernod-Ricard, on 18 and 17, respectively. If the news from China gets no worse, Rémy should be able to maintain the gap. But there is little scope for a higher rating and, as the shares' performance over the autumn shows, plenty of room for a fall if the Chinese decide to drink elsewhere.

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