Best Production Design
Anya Hindmarch
For her math-inspired collection, the London-based accessories and outerwear designer staged an epic, ethereal show complete with a movable disc reminiscent of a space craft, and a vertigo-inducing circular stairway. Models moved around at a dizzying clip, but not too fast for attendees to get glimpses of the intricate geometric appliques on Hindmarch's trim neoprene coats and leather goods, like cross-body bags and pool slide sandals that come in shades of teal, oxblood, cobalt and saffron. It was a strangely sweet affair.
Best Hair and Makeup
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
With tarot card invites and a petal-strewn pathway as the catwalk, it was clear that designers Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton went for a walk on the wild, witchy side for spring. To complement a host of tight trousers, distressed separates and frilled dresses (some covered in pentagram-like stars), the beauty look at the show was soft and surreal, conjuring the idea of wood nymphs and Shakespeare's Ophelia. Haphazard braiding was featured alongside flora adhered to faces, shoulders and backs. Expect to see the look at a festival near you.
Best Supporting Cast
Isa Arfen
Inspired by the work of iconic Malian photographer Seydou Keita, tribal patterning and even Keith Haring's body painting on Grace Jones, Serafina Sama's uplifting offerings popped on a group of models who were well assembled by casting director Shelley Durkan. The charming lot were seen playing cards, watering plants, hanging stockings on a clothes line and braiding each other's hair while decked out in bold shades of orange, blue, ochre and brown tempered with black and white. The organic nature of the print work was juxtaposed beautifully with the collection's more strict graphic lines and the brand's signature bow details.
Most Important Accessory
Utility footwear
It's no secret that much of fashion's MO is to take the mundane and make it covetable. When the normcore trend materialized, many in the industry couldn't fathom why someone would want to tone down her style to the state of, well, normalcy. For spring, some designers have tweaked common – and in one case, downright controversial – shoe styles for those who crave function, but also fantasy. At Maison Margiela, designer John Galliano sent yoga mats down the runway and with them a sturdy sandal set in quirky colourways. Donatella Versace paired her ultra-glamorous designs with a platform-style Teva. The most shocking iteration came at Christopher Kane, where Crocs were cast in a much less loathsome light thanks to artful hues, rocks and gems.
Most Valuable Player
Amber Witcomb
Former Globe Style cover model Amber Witcomb made a splash this season, gracing the runways of much-anticipated shows in Europe including J.W. Anderson, Jil Sander, Loewe and Marni. She opened the acclaimed show for Belgium-born designer Dries Van Noten, and had her coif notably chopped into a prim bob for Prada. Hailing from Birmingham, England, and with a home base in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Witcomb's stellar season will surely be parlayed into a few choice advertising campaigns.
Best In Show
Sies Marjan (New York)
Simone Rocha (London)
Marco de Vincenzo (Milan)
PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP/Getty Images
Jacquemus (Paris)
If the brands that presented the coolest collections are still unfamiliar to you, fear not – thanks to strong spring offerings, they're well on their way to becoming household names. In New York, designer Sander Lak (who previously worked at Dries Van Noten and Balmain) showed his second collection under the label Sies Marjan; it was a focused array of juicy-hued silken separates and beautifully draped dresses. In London, Simone Rocha played with her forlorn, romantic aesthetic by adding more deftly tailored pieces to the mix as well as patchworking the decadent textiles her collections typically feature. Marco de Vincenzo was ever the maximalist, embracing Milan's penchant for eccentricity and using fringe, metallics, embroidery and chiffon in fanciful ways. And Simon Porte Jacquemus, who energized Paris with his off-beat conceptual vision, proved his mettle with looks that were interesting but grounded, artistic yet approachable.
Most Wearable Trend
Robes
Thanks to the enduring appeal of " pyjama dressing," the style set is becoming increasingly accepting of comfort-chic attire. Though it's not a new silhouette, the robe was featured strongly in several collections, from sport-heritage brand Lacoste and Cali-cool street label Band of Outsiders to the first offering by Bouchra Jarrar, the new designer for luxury Parisian brand Lanvin. The disparity between these three lines further proves the power of the look; one that can take you, literally, from morning to night.
Most Memorable Moment
Vionnet's slow fashion
While most of his on-the-scene and backstage Instagramming features cheeky model shots and front-row cataloguing, Vogue Runway's Luke Leitch snapped a particularly potent look while in Paris at the Vionnet show. Accompanied by a quote from the brand's designer, Goga Ashkenazi, the photo featured the back of a cape with a message about the amount of work put into making it. Surely it gave show attendees pause, but for the general public, such an idea should perhaps become a more common practice. Maybe price tags should feature similar information, so consumers will finally understand exactly where their dollars are going.
Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images for IMG Fashion
Best Foreign Feature
Sid Neigum
As one of the final designers to show on the London Fashion Week calendar, Alberta-born designer Sid Neigum had his work cut out for him in terms of meeting expectations. Presenting a well-honed collection in a tempting palette of black, white, red and golden-beige, Neigum impressed by tempering his technical playfulness (origami detailing, abstract burnouts) with design savvy, catering to a customer who wants versatility and ease of wear when it comes to their wardrobe. Many emerging Canadian designers feel the pull of international recognition to help build their brand, and this was a strong way for Neigum to emerge on the world stage.