For the last 12 months,
have had all the fun. The breakout success of
Michele at Gucci gave the iconic brand new cachet and ignited a passion for idiosyncratic dressing, the likes of which we hadn't seen since Vogue editor Anna
Russo made hourly outfit changes a thing. While the
trend satisfied a legion of no-fuss dressers, it hardly inspired them. Take a look at the spring 2017 catwalks, however, and a sight for overstimulated eyes appears. Brands best known for sleek chic are back with a bounce in their step, refocusing our attention on sumptuous fabrics, novel textures and an asymmetry that gives their garments a contemporary flourish.
At Céline, drop shoulders were balanced by a skirt worn over trousers to create an effect that was off-kilter but certainly not kooky.
Micro-pleats played against smooth skins at Jil Sander, while Albertan designer Malorie Urbanovitch used gathering to great effect in a short safari-style jacket.
At the helm of Spanish label Loewe, Jonathan Anderson added a twist to the 170-year-old house's history of leather work. All are excellent reasons to leave any frill-seeking behind.