In a variety of cuts from slim to outsized and ranging from glam-era plaids to groovy marbleized patterning, head-turning suits reign this season. Louis Vuitton made a case for opulent Arts & Crafts-style motifs, while Andrea Pompilio’s red-checked look has an updated 1940s flair. Canali’s black-and-white suit, paired with simple monochromatic accessories, makes a subtler statement. The key to making this look work is to either pare down (sticking to neutral shirting) or amp up (accenting with a colour). Pick your pleasure and go forth with gusto. (Imaxtree)
For Brian A. Richards of The Collections, a Toronto-based fashion consultancy firm, fall’s quirky new trends – cropped trousers, novel turtlenecks and ultra-loud suits, to name a few – would be welcome additions to his well-stocked wardrobe. “I love turtlenecks. I’ll definitely be wearing them,” he says of the not-always-easy-to-pull-off style (pun intended). Richards is known for his eclectic ensembles, favouring camo-patterned suiting and bold floral prints. And though he solicits corporate attention in his line of work, he’s not beholden to the typical style parameters the corporate crowd adheres to.
Wearing a boldly patterned suit by Louis Vuitton or an oversized shawl by Loewe to the office might seem unthinkable to that crowd – and to most working men – but if the runway is any indication, that won’t be the case for long. Last year, Euromonitor International reported that men’s-wear sales had reached $440-billion (U.S.), growing 4.5 per cent and outstripping growth in the women’s-wear category. This summer, New York hosted its first-ever series of men’s-wear focused runway shows, to capitalize on the growing influence of international men’s-wear presentations. In short, men are now fashion’s most important customers, and while only a select few are likely to don a pussy-bow blouse like the ones Gucci showed this season, the adventurous nature of the latest crop of essentials – including bright purple turtlenecks and outsized check suiting – seem poised to challenge a broader swath of men to move beyond their style limits.
A timeless favourite, turtlenecks are everywhere this fall. What’s new are the hues – from Bottega Veneta’s Kelly green offering to Ami’s pastel blue knit. Exaggerated shapes also gave a twist to the trend: Baja East showcased slouchy, chin-grazing necklines, and Duckie Brown went one step further with a more sculptural design that looked futuristic but still wearable. Downplay the volume of an exaggerated neck by wearing yours with slim-fit slacks. (Imaxtree)
Of course, just how outré these trends are depends on who you ask. “We’re not reinventing anything,” says Chris Gamauf, senior men’s-wear buyer at Holt Renfrew, of the surge of off-beat classics displayed at the fall shows. “What makes these pieces new is the silhouette, the colour, the fabrication.” Tweaking a quilted jacket (one of outerwear’s new hero pieces), for instance, by reimagining it in patchwork style, as Dries van Noten did, seems a logical place to start when courting a customer who is used to considering functionality over fashion, as male shoppers tend to do. The shape and texture of the coat are familiar, while the hodge-podge effect of varying textiles pushes boundaries.
Richards says this evolution is necessary in an industry that cycles through women’s-wear trends exhaustively, but doesn’t always yield the sales results expected from such production volume. “Women’s wear has gone everywhere, to androgyny and back,” he says, “but men’s wear offers this new territory of experimentation.”
Outerwear was tough-but-puffed for fall, with quilted bomber-style jackets seen at Antonio Marras and Todd Snyder’s runway shows. Some designers took a quirkier approach to the classic piece: Katie Eary chose a bold cobalt hue for her quilted topper, while Dries Van Noten created a vest-like effect by piecing together fabric in various shades and textures. Depending on the cut, this piece has both workdays and weekends covered. (Imaxtree)
Consider it the newest iteration of the sixties mod or seventies glam rocker. Though far from outrageous, these tweaks to classic wardrobe staples signal a heightened appreciation for self-expression in the men’s camp. Gamauf notes that street-style stars such as Nick Wooster, a New York-based brand consultant who is known for his boldly patterned jackets and shortened slacks (and who was recently listed on Vanity Fair’s best-dressed list), and Justin O’Shea, buying director of the luxury e-comm platform My Theresa, who pairs three-piece suits with unusual shirts and coats, have become inspirational figures. These new fashion icons are exposing men to the idea of dressing to please themselves, an unconventional concept for this customer base. Richards recalls the early aughts, and the rise of the metrosexual – when suddenly men were encouraged to invest in fashion pieces – as the last time that demographic was reasonably engaged. Perhaps ironically, it was women’s magazines and their embrace of the metrosexual look that played an instrumental role in making advanced grooming (that is, anything beyond a shave and a haircut) and luxury accessories an acceptable part of the average male’s lifestyle.
Watch: Would you sport one of these bold men's suits to the office?
Today, the rise of sportswear – which emphasizes fashionable detailing with a relaxed feel, an approachable notion for guys – is also loosening the rules of men’s wear. So is a changing workforce made up of millennials, startup types and non-9-to-5-ers, who are increasingly conducting business outside of the boardroom.
A hint of southwestern attitude accented many shows, including Sacai, where a fringed knit poncho gave earthy weight to a sportswear-infused collection, and Richard James, who styled a poncho with knee-high boots and an embellished fedora. Burberry Prorsum and Issey Miyake played with length and volume to lend interest to their over-the-top toppers. Pair one with a sleek, streamlined outfit to avoid evoking a bit player at the O.K. Corral. (Imaxtree)
That said, as Richards points out, we may live in a start-up society, but tradition still dominates the way men dress. Not all men are able to expand their fashion horizons during the workday – or choose to do so during the off-hours.
For Graham Smith, vice-president of Ashlar Urban Realty, the progress in men’s wear isn’t relevant to his professional (or personal) style. Smith, who describes his look as “fairly traditional,” favours classics such as simple cashmere sweaters and similarly subtle suiting for the office. Of the outsized checks on a black-and-white Canali suit, he says, “Maybe if I had another job and if it was done in dark blue instead of white, I would wear that.”
Baring ankles during the summer is already a tall order for many gents. But, according to designers such as Robert Geller and Junya Watanabe, who showed trousers hems several inches higher than the seasonal norm, skin is in for at least a few more months. The easiest way to wear them in cool weather is to pair them with ankle boots (or, for a jolt of personality, with statement socks and laceups). (Geller courtesy of Robert Geller; Imaxtree)
As Richards sees is, such designs are nudging gents in a more fashion-forward direction, but the progress is going to be incremental. He points to designer Robert Geller’s collection, which featured an array of shortened slacks, as a prime example. The cropped trousers were paired with simple white shirts, a pairing that tones down the oddness of the new hem height and highlights ease of styling.
Gamauf says that for anyone timid about sporting a turtleneck, it makes sense to try one in a neutral colour like navy before advancing to orange or Kelly green (both hot colours for turtles this fall). The same goes for suiting – a muted printed suit is a good gateway to the amplified paisley patterns Etro showed. The effect, after all, is cumulative. As men increase their awareness of what’s available and feel more included in the fashion fold, there’s a good chance that forward-moving trends will take.