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This is really good, French-style syrah at a not-outrageous price. Crozes-Hermitage, an appellation in the northern Rhône Valley, where syrah reigns supreme, is an inconsistent place, arguably more hit than miss. Guigal, an esteemed large négociant producer, pulled off a winner here. It's a meaty red, with a soupçon of pastrami (seriously), black currant and classic syrah pepperiness. The tannins pull it in tight. Decant it now or cellar it for up to a decade; $25.65 in Quebec.

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