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Who needs a wine critic to anoint this as a fine bargain? Not the brand's many wise and unpretentious fans around the globe. To be clear, this is Citra's sangiovese, not its montepulciano d'Abruzzo, another good-value red that I preferred not quite as much in this vintage. Sangiovese – made from Chianti's principal red grape, delivered more pleasure in 2013. Midweight and supple, it shows succulent cherry fruit framed by bright acidity, finishing with a salty tang. Try it with roast poultry or steak or cheese – it's that versatile. Various prices in Alberta.

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