What's the most challenging wine in the world to make? I would argue it's not some small-lot, thousand-dollar trophy red coddled by high-paid consultants in some château or hip garage in Pomerol. It's a drinkable, under-$10 pinot noir. The grape variety is notoriously tough to coax into good wine even when vineyard yields are kept expensively low. Undurraga deserves applause for making decent pinot available to the masses. Don't expect huge concentration; this is a light-bodied red. But it shows solid varietal character, with a core of cherry that gets support from herbs and creosote and culminates in a crisp, dry finish. A good red for fish.