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It's remarkable that in a land best known for high-priced cult cabernet sauvignons, this relatively affordable white remains one of Napa Valley's classics. Mondavi's 2013 fumé – a barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc – is in fact less expensive than in previous vintages (the 2005 sold for $24.95 in Ontario back in 2007, for example). Light-medium-bodied and silky, it displays mellow red-apple and melon characters and a hint of toastiness lifted by zesty citrus, with little of the herbal character of most sauvignon blancs. Versatile at the table, it's perfect for medium-weight fish, such as grilled or oven-roasted halibut; $17.39 plus sales tax in B.C. (on sale for $16.39 till May 2), various prices in Alberta, $25.25 in Quebec, $26 in Prince Edward Island, $29.27 in Newfoundland.

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