Canadian wineries are busy stocking their shelves with new releases in anticipation of the summer season. Freshly bottled aromatic white wines and rosés from last year’s vintage will be featured soon at tasting bars in Niagara, Ont., and beyond, alongside current releases from the 2022 and 2021 harvests.
Focusing on new options releasing in the coming weeks allows the young wines a chance to get over any ill effects from bottling. So-called “bottle shock” is a condition when a wine temporarily loses some of its flavour or aroma. The wines return to form as they acclimatize to being in their new environment in a matter of days or weeks.
Shipping across the country can also have a short-term effect on a wine’s character. Some wine clubs include notes with their shipments asking consumers to wait a few weeks before opening their purchases to ensure they are at their best.
Several high-profile Canadian wines are released this month, including the latest collection of gamay noirs from popular Niagara winemaker Thomas Bachelder, a new amphora-aged chardonnay from Stratus Vineyards and exciting additions to CheckMate’s chardonnay portfolio from the Okanagan Valley. Owing to their small-batch natures, many of the wines recommended this week are only available at the winery or its online shop. There are also some larger-volume featured releases that are stocked at liquor stores.
Bachelder Bai Xu Vineyard Gamay Noir 2022 (Canada), $32
C. Tothe/Handout
Winemaker Thomas Bachelder added gamay noir to his portfolio in the 2016 vintage and the quality and calibre of the wines continue to improve. This small-batch red (only 48 cases) from the Bai Xu vineyard from Niagara-on-the-Lake is the most compelling gamay he produced in 2022. Made in a refined and refreshing style, this offers a core of juicy red fruit with structuring tannins and acidity. This shows tremendous potential for aging. Drink 2025 to 2034. Available direct, bachelderniagara.com.
Bachelder Les Villages NOTL Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $34.95
C. Tothe/Handout
This is one of three Les Villages label chardonnays produced by Bachelder in 2022, the others represent the Lincoln Lakeshore and the Bench winemaking regions in Niagara. This is the smallest production and the one with the biggest element of surprise. Warmer conditions in Niagara-on-the-Lake usually produce riper and richer styles of chardonnay, but this is remarkably sleek and restrained in nature. Pear and apple are on display with savoury and chalky notes that carry through to a refreshing finish. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, bachelderniagara.com.
CheckMate Queen Taken Chardonnay 2021 (Canada), $125
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CheckMate produces a range of single-vineyard chardonnay from vineyards in the Okanagan, the most compelling come from the vines closest to the winery on the Golden Mile Bench. Produced from some of the oldest chardonnay vines planted in British Columbia, this is a wine that delivers interest, enjoyment and excitement. Refreshing and complex, with an intriguing mix of fruit (pear, apricot/peach, hint of tropical) flavours, complemented by aniseed, sage and spice notes that taper into a savoury, mineral finish. Tremendous potential for aging. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, checkmatewinery.com.
Hidden Bench Estate Organic Chardonnay 2021 (Canada), $31.75
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A blend of chardonnay from the winery’s organically farmed estate vineyards, aged in a mixture of new and old French oak and concrete casks, this displays Hidden Bench’s rich and ripe house style. There’s crowd-pleasing creamy and complex character that shows a strong Burgundian inspiration, with layers of flavour deftly balanced by bright acidity and underlying earthy notes. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario ($29.95 until April 28) and direct, hiddenbench.com, $34.75 in Quebec.
Stratus Amphora Chardonnay 2021 (Canada), $55
Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Stratus Vineyards is increasing the number of clay amphora in its cellars for aging red and white wines. This rounded and textural chardonnay is one of the first commercial releases, made from wine that was aged for nine months in the ceramic vessel prior to bottling. The finished wine is ripe and finely balanced, with an impression of creaminess from aging with the lees (dead yeast cells) and appealing citrus and orchard fruit flavours. Drink now to 2027. Available direct, stratuswines.com.
Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Noir 2021 (Canada), $29.99
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Made in a refreshing and fragrant style, this pinot noir comes from two estate vineyards on the Black Sage Bench in the Okanagan Valley. The silky texture and complex mix of cherry/berry fruit, floral and spice notes make this easy to appreciate. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $29.90 direct, stoneboatvineyards.com.
Tawse Limestone Ridge-North Riesling 2021 (Canada), $21.95
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A classic expression of Niagara riesling, this off-dry white shows nicely balanced ripe citrus and apple fruit flavours with honey, spice and petrol notes. The acidity is nicely calibrated, making this a more gentle and approachable white that is enjoyable now and has potential to mature in the cellar (9.8 per cent alcohol, 22 g/litre residual sweetness). Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario and direct, tawsewinery.ca.
Terravista Winery Fandango 2022 (Canada), $33
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This expressive, unoaked white is produced with verdejo and albarino grapes grown on the winery’s estate in Naramata, B.C. The 12th release of Fandango marks the first time verdejo makes up most of the blend (60 per cent), which is reflected in the zippy and zesty character. There’s refreshing citrus notes with focused herbal and tropical fruit aromas and flavours. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price direct, terravistawinery.com, various prices in British Columbia.
Christopher Waters