One foot in modernity, one foot in the past, this is multigenerational grappa, and not just because it's from a family business going back to 1951. The style embraces the single-grape-variety trend that's pushed the classic Italian spirit, grudgingly, into the world of connoisseurs. Yet it stands firmly on ground that would have made people such as my old-school-grappa-loving father smile. This is gutsy, if silky, stuff, with a doughy, earthy, volatile aroma and notes of pear, licorice, Turkish delight and flowers.