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pick of the week

You seek a good sparkling wine for New Year's, one that won't break the bank (this is the eternal economic recovery, after all). How about a Spanish-owned brand from California with Champagne pretensions? Made in the Champagne style, with a second fermentation in the long-cellared bottle to yield pinpoint bubbles, Ferrer's classic brut is an elegant crowd-pleaser. The core is moderately sweet but the finish bone-dry, yielding a mélange of berries, orange zest, tangerine, apple and baked bread.

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