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Central Otago, in the south, gets most of the pinot attention in New Zealand. This is from further north, in Marlborough, famous land of famously herbal Kiwi sauvignon blanc. Don't let the bias dissuade you. Auntsfield's Single Vineyard teased out superb balance from an unusually cold season in 2012. The wine is medium-bodied and velvety, with ripe-berry character and a savoury lift from licorice and spice, and cheaper than top-flight red Burgundy.

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